These are the tasting notes for Chef Paul’s dishes featured on Poissonnerie Sherbrooke’s menu. Chef Paul has 40 years of cooking experience in some of Montreal’s top restaurants. See the full feature and the story about owner Mark Céré in the Westmount Independent’s June 20, 2023 issue (pages 14-15). In the meantime, enjoy some vicariously delicious dishes.
The first dish was the filet of Branzino (or European Sea Bass), which reminded me of a dining experience one fairy tale evening in Dubrovnik, Croatia (circa 2011). As that night, nestled between the off-white stone walls of the old city; the fish was prepared pure and simply Mediterranean-style; with olive oil, lemon, a touch of herbs, and sea salt. Why mess with perfection?
Next up, was a crab cake fit for a king: thicker than a hockey puck, and full-on crabby (yet not in a grumpy way). I’m talking serious lump crab, with a light crust of finely seasoned breadcrumbs; served with house-made spicy mayo. Great seasoning kick!
On the sunny patio, several of those passing by spied the dish which I called ‘Mont St. Seafood’ and swore to return; two of whom went right in. The texture of the rice was nothing short of Goldilocks: its tenderness not too al dente, too moist, nor too sticky (w/peas and tomatoes); infused with just enough essence of the sea, and was good to the last grain. The seafood dispersed throughout the dish included; moist morsels of black cod, baby clams (on the half shell), calamari rings, shrimp, and slightly smokey tasting scallops. I’ll sum it up with a phrase containing words starting with S. The saffron kissed rice was infused with the essence of the Spanish sea ie. a taste of Spain on Sherbrooke.
The Oysters Rockefeller were a treat, with their creamy smooth puréed potato filling, plus their requisite oyster pearl nestled beneath a delicate nest of spinach; on the half shell. I believe Rockefeller himself, would be in spiritual approval.
The Corsican-style halibut; with its whole garlic cloves, was more plated seafood art than a dish to be eaten — but that didn’t save it from being tasted after its VIP moment under lights and lenses.
Then came, not one, not two, but three notable tuna dishes.
Tuna tataki topped with a ‘secret sauce’ paired up the perfect enhancement. I guessed it included a hint of horseradish (which Chef Paul would neither confirm, nor deny).
Sesame tuna with yuzu sauce: pan seared, sliced, and sauced to perfection. Meaty and sesame crusted on the outside, yet tender on the inside — presenting the majesty of the fish in a dish. Asian-style yuzu sauce had citrus undertones, and absorbed well into each morsel, for a subtly sweet and devour-worthy bite.
Tuna tartare which embodied the essence of freshness and quality with giant capers, went hand-in-hand with its sibling salmon tartar: rich, smooth and sensual; shall I go on… okay, I will…
Salmon tartare: sushi grade fish forward with back end heat. Minced red onions added to the pow factor, and split capers added balance and a touch of savoriness. Silky satin smooth texture with a memorable spice finish.
Mussels marinara: which dare I say were memorable to an award-winning level, and piled to the hilt with the maximum one plate could handle. I knew there was something special about his take on this dish as I honed in on two unique additions to Chef Paul’s masterful red sauce – one to give it added kick, and another for a touch of heat. He tried to trick me this time, but when I saw one of his classic wry smiles — I knew, I was on to him. Ginger and chili flakes gave it more bite than most — and more memorability. Don’t tell anyone, or I may have to remove this ‘secret’.
Shrimp dumplings befitting a red carpeted, gold trimmed, mirror walled; dim sum dining room — delicate, fragrant and filled with Matane shrimp (when in season) which gave them — un petit charme Québécois.
Cod fish & chips: with what looked like crushed Cheetos batter, was bright orange – which caught everyone’s attention. Who doesn’t love a good fish & chips plate — especially with delicious fries and spiced mayo.
Fried filet of sole: with its ultra fine bread crumbs, was a thing of seafood-finger-food-beauty — flash fried, crisp and non-greasy. Dipped in tartar sauce, spicy mayo, or regular mayo — it was mind blowing emoji good.
Right-sized calamari rings that looked like a platter of golden onion rings with a light flaky batter. We are talking some seriously devour-worthy finger food here, and I haven’t even mentioned liquid pairings.
The mixed salad with made-in-house blue cheese dressing, adorned with endive petals, wedges of tomato and red onions looked more like an edible flower than a salad. What a kick that dressing had, but it all disappeared.
Chef Paul’s seafood with al dente artisanal pasta was covered in huge scallops, Tiger shrimp, chunks of halibut with a layers of tangy tomato based flavour defined what a great seafood pasta plate should be.
The Brandy infused Lobster Newburg is not only what seafood dreams are made of, but this showstopper inspired the comments, “I love the Brandy in this dish,” followed closely by, “Who doesn’t love Brandy?”
We also spoke about styles of clam chowder and how he uses no cream in his version. I mentioned Rhode Island-style which has a much thinner broth, and told him I realized my Mom had been making a hybrid version all along. Hers did have proper cream and even butter, but it was neither thick, complete thin like a broth – it was more translucent. She had created something special which I have never come across since her passing.
How could I not add my thoughts on Chef Paul’s lobster roll fit for royalty. I must say it’s a standout amongst the many I’ve tried over the years (in New England or wherever they wind up on a menu). I thought it resembled a Viking ship when I spruced it up for the photo (so that’s how it got its nickname). Perhaps it’s the Tarragon infused and seasoned mayonnaise, the choice chunks of fresh Gaspesian lobster, the locally sourced brioche bun (warmed in the oven for the perfect texture both in and out), the semi-sweet butter lettuce – or all of its components that helped land it a spot on my most memorable lobster rolls list, so a big bravo the chef!
At the end of the marathon tasting, my notebook was covered with saucy proof that we had crossed the proverbial gastronomic finish line — and what a delicious race it was.
By Jeff Shoer
Bonus interview ‘footage’: During my chat with Chef Paul, we reminisced about the beginnings of the sushi movement in Montreal, which took shape in the late 80s and 90s. Together, we attempted to recall the names of the old stalwarts like Sakura, Katsura, Mikado then the new breed; Sho-dan, Kaizen, and Treehouse, and somewhere in between the interesting and ingenious hybrid concepts as at Primadonna which married an Italian and sushi menu. By chance my first experience putting a piece of raw fish in my mouth and tasting the delicate texture of sashimi was there in the mid- to late-90s (you never forget your first time). These days tartares have become all the rage, and have taken ‘some’ of the spotlight off sushi. Finally, a Chef Paul takeaway – mentioning it was ‘rare’ to prepare fish seared when he started in the culinary arts – oh, how tastes evolve.
Author’s note: While listening to his resume I got an in depth Montreal restaurant history lesson as a bonus. The three restaurants Chef Paul worked the longest for were: 40 Westt Steakhouse (10 years), Desjardins Seafood (9 years), and The Old Spaghetti Factory (7 years) – all of which (as you may imagine) he was proud of.
Food in Travel 
Mouthwatering dishes! Amazing photos!! Westmount Montreal, here we come!! YUM!!
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Jeff introduced himself to me while I was reading his latest article — Chef Paul — at EATZ. What timing! As an Indian-Canadian and Westmounter, it was a pleasure to read an article about a fellow South Asian. And, while Chef Paul, whom I look forward to meeting soon (prompted by Jeff’s article!) and I have had very different lives, starting new and using your resources to succeed is something we share in common. Personally, I cannot wait to finally sit down at Poissonnerie for food (cod? mussels? tuna tartare?) and, I hope, conversation, too.
Jeff, thank you for the highly interesting profile of Chef Paul and his remarkable journey — that’s clearly still underway!
-Ruchika
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Wow! Everything looks so amazing; we’ll have to make a road trip from Boston to Montreal for a scrumptious meal and maybe even extend stay a few days to try as many delicacies as possible. Thanks for sharing this amazing treasure with the world.
Marc C.
Lynn, MA
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That all looked amazing, especially the fried calamari in that last photo. You made me hungry!
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Wow !! The pictures and descriptions are absolutely amazing. There are some things I generally would not eat but maybe would try . Great job Jeff with the stunning pictures and Paul for creating these amazing dinners.
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Crab Cakes, Shrimp Dumplings and Chowdahhhhhhhhh!!! OH MY!
Nice article! Great job Jeff.
Proud of you!
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All of these dishes look absolutely spectacular! I love the puns you threw in there for added measure, they really helped seal the deal and make me want to take a roadtrip… asap!
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